Extensible-hem garment construction



B. CAPLAN 2,508,223

EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION May 16, 1950 Filed NOV. 23, 1948 5Sheets-Sheet 1 IN V EN TOR.

y 16, 1950 B. CAPLAN 2,508,223

EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 25, 1948 s Sheets-Sheet 2IN V EN TOR.

May 16, 1950 B. CAPLAN EXTENSIBLE HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTIQN 3Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed NOV. 25-, 1948 Patented May 16, 1950 UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE EXTENSIBLE-HEM GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 6 Claims.

The present invention relates generally to overcoats, jackets or thelike and it relates more particularly to coats for growing childrenwhich can be quickly and easily lengthened from year to year.

An object of the present invention is to provide a new and improvedconstruction for an overcoat or topcoat or jacket or the like. Anotherobject of the present invention is to provide an overcoat or similargarment for growing children having a new and improved bottom hemconstruction permitting the coat to be lengthened quickly and easily,when required, without the need for restitching. Other objects andadvantages of th present invention are apparent in the followingdetailed description, appended claims and accompanying drawings.

It has been suggested in the past to provide overcoats or the like forgrowing children wherein the bottom hem is so constructed that the coatcan be lengthened to permit it to be worn for two or more seasons.

These conventional constructions have not,

however, proven entirely satisfactory since, in

some cases, they have required a stitching operation on the lengthenedgarment and, in other cases, have involved relatively difiicult andtimeconsuming stitch-removing operations or relatively complicated andexpensive structural feaand the lining are turned upward and inward (i.e., toward each other) to provide horns and a continuous annular line ofremovable stitching or tacking is then applied so as to fasten the upperedge of the upturned hem of the coat to the outer ply of the coatmaterial (by blind or invisible stitches) and to fasten the upper edgeof the upturned hem of the lining to the outer ply of the liningmaterial (or, to the inner-lining where one is present) v For thepurpose of illustrating the invention,

there are shown in the accompanying drawings for-ms thereof which are atpresent preferred, although it is to be understood that the variousinstrumentalities of which the invention consists can be variouslyarranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to thprecise arrangements and organizations of the instrumentalities asherein shown and described.

Referring to the accompanying drawings in which like referencecharacters indicate like parts throughout:

Figure 1 represents a front elevational view as one embodiment of thepresent invention as it appears before lengthening.

Figure 2 represents an elevational view of the embodiment of Figure 1shown in unbuttoned position and with the lower edge turned up at oneside so as better to reveal the construction of the bottom hem.

Figure 3 represents an elevational view showing the rear of theembodiment of Figure 1; the lengthened position of the bottom hem beingshown in dash-dot lines.

Figure 4 represents a fragmentary perspective view, on an enlargedscale, showing the rear of the coat as it appears when the coat ply isturned up and with the removable stitching partly pulled loose, freeinga portion of the lining hem.

Figure 5 represents a cross-sectional view generally along the line 55of Figure 2.

Figure 6 represents a cross-sectional view generally like that of Figure5 but showing the coat as it would appear during an intermediate stagein the lengthening operation; that is, with the removable stitchingpulled out sufiiciently to free the lining hem but not yet to free thecoat hem.

Figure 7 represents a cross-sectional View generally like those ofFigures 5 and 6 but showing the appearance of the coat after theremovable stitching has been completely pulled out so as to free boththe lining hem and the coat hem.

Figure 8 represents a cross-sectional view generally along the line 8-8of Figure 2.

In Figures 1-8, I have shown an overcoat intended for a growing girlwhich embodies the present invention and which includes an outer ply 26of relatively heavy-weight fabric (which is referred to hereinafter asthe coat-ply), having left and right f acings 2|, between the inner freeedges of which extends a lining 22 of light-weight fabric such as silkor rayon or nylon, as indicated particularly in Figure 2.

An inter-lining 23 (which is of relatively coarse mesh materialproviding additional warmth) may be provided on the inner side of thelining 22 (so that it is intermediate the lining and the coatply, asindicated particularly in Figure 5). The lower edge of the inter-lining23 is fastened to the lowermost free edge of the lining 22 by the bottomstitching 24, as indicated particularly in Figure 4.

In forming the novel extensible hem construction of the presentinvention, I turn up the lowermost edge 25 of the coat-ply 20 (which ishemmed and finished ofi with a tape 26 in generally conexpose the endstitching 33.

2 3 ventional manner) so as to provide a relatively large hem 2! whichmay be of the order of 2-2 /2 inch width or transverse dimension.

The facings 2| are similarly turned up at their bottom edges as at 28and the lining 22 (with its associated inter-lining 23) is also turnedup to provide a hem 29 of approximately the same transverse dimension.However, the fold-line 33 forming the hem 21 is somewhat lower thanfold-line 3| forming the hem 29 so that, as indicated particularly inFigures 1 and 5, the coatply will extend downward somewhat beyond thelining so as to conceal it from view.

A single continuous line of readily removable stitching or tacking 32 isthen applied so as to fasten the up-turned free edges of the hems 2! and28 to the juxtaposed fabric plies. That is, the stitching which maybegin adjacent one edge of the coat-ply 28 (see for example therighthand edge in Figure 2) is first run along the free edge 25 of thehem 21 until it reaches the other edge of the coat-ply 20 and is thencontinued along the hem 23 of the facing 2| and along the upper edge ofthe hem 29 of the lining 22 and finally along the upper edge of theother facing hem 28 back to its starting point. The stitching is thencontinued diagonally along the hem 2'! a short distance as at 33.

The stitching 32 is of a type well known in the art and is made up of asuccession of loops which come apart when one end of the thread isbroken and pulled so that the entire line of stitching can be unraveledor ripped out in a single more or less continuous operation.

Where the stitching 32 is affixed to the coatply 29 it is of a blind orinvisible stitch type wherein the thread enters the inner side of thefabric but is not visible on the outer side.

That portion of the stitching 32 which holds the hem 29 is also blind orinvisible when the coat is opened as in Figure 2; the stitches passingthrough the hem 29 and both plies of the inter-lining 23 but not passingthrough the body of the lining 22, as indicated particularly in Figure5.

It is apparent that the stitching 32 is thus fully concealed from viewwhen the coat is worn,

prior to lengthening, and is protected against accidental catching andbreaking of the threads such as would otherwise inadvertently result inunraveling of the stitching.

As is customary in coats of this general type, particularly girls coats,the lower edge of the lining is thus left free and is not stitched tothe coat-ply.

When it is desired to lengthen the coat, the coat-ply and the lining arespread apart or opened in the manner indicated in Figure 2 to Thisstitching is then broken and the free end of the thread is pulled so asprogressively to unravel said stitchmg.

Thus, as indicated particularly in Figure 4, the unraveling of thestitching proceeds first along the hem 28 of the facing 2! and thenalong the hem 29 of the lining 22 thereby permitting the hems to dropdown to the lengthened position. Figure 6 is a more or less schematicrepresentation of this intermediate condition wherein the lining hem 29has been opened while the coat-ply hem 2'! is still secured.

Further unraveling of the stitching would progressively open the hem 28of the other facing 21 and the hem 21 of the coat-ply 2E and,

ultimately, the entire stitching is pulled out ,soaeee whereupon thehems are completely held down in the manner indicated in Figure '7 andalso indicated in dash-dot lines in Figure 3.

Thereafter, it is necessary merely to press the lower edge of thegarment to remove the impressions of the fold-lines 3B and 3| whereuponthe garment is ready for use in lengthened condition.

It is possible to provide identical extensible hem constructions (notshown) at the free edges of the sleeves so that they, too, can belengthened. However, where such extensible hem constructions areprovided for the sleeves, it may be desirable to stitch the free edge ofthe outer ply (corresponding to the edge 25) to the adjoining free edgeof the lining to prevent the lining from being pulled up into the sleevewhen the coat is removed. I

While the novel coat construction of the present invention has beenshown in the drawings as including an inter-lining 23, this inter-liningis not essential and can be omitted if desired. In such case, thestitching 32 will fasten the uppermost free edge of the upturned hem 29directly to the lining 22 (instead of to the intervening inter-lining23) and, in all other respects, the structure will be identical.

While particularly well adapted for use in overcoats for growingchildren, the present invention is not limited to this particular typeof garment and, in addition, can be used in jackets, top-coats and othertypes of similar, lined garments.

Similarly, while particularly well adapted for lengthening the lowermostfree edges of coats or the like, the novel extensible hem constructionof the present invention can also be used in coat sleeves and the like.

From the foregoing description, it is obvious that the novel extensiblehem construction of the present invention permits the lengthening ofhems and the like with a minimum of time and eiiort required. Indeed,the stitching 32 can be broken and completely removed in a matter of afew seconds and the lengthened garment is then ready for use in the fewminutes required to press out the fold-lines 30 and 3|.

N o stitching or other expert operations such as would require theservices of a tailor are neces- 'sary.

The novel extensible hem construction of the present invention in no wayimpairs the appearance of the garment either before or afterlengthening. Thus, the seam 32 is fully concealed from view prior tolengthening so that the garment presents the appearance of any ordinarygarment having a standard hem-line.

After lengthening, the appearance of the garment is also no differentfrom what would ordinarily be the case since the thread-holes are notvisible at the extended portion of the coat-ply which is of relativelycoarse-textured heavy fabric.

Since the stitching 32 is fully enclosed intermediate the upturned hems,it is protected against inadvertent breaking and unraveling such asmight very well-result if it were visible and exposed on the inside ofthe lining (as is the case with certain prior-art structures). Thus, ifthe removable stitching were visible and exposed on the inside of thelining (as, for example, if viewed as in Figure 2) it could readily betorn when being put on or taken oilby the wearer.

In the present construction, on the other hand, it is virtuallyimpossible 'for the stitching 32 to be accidentally broken since'it'iswell concealed and protected and, at the same time, it is readilyaccessible when it is desired to lengthen the hem.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms withoutdeparting from the spirit or essential attributes thereof, and it istherefore desired that the present embodiments be considered in allrespects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to theappended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate thescope of the invention.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to protectby Letters Patent:

1. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relativelywide bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from theoutside of the garment, a lining having a bottom hem of generally thesame width as the firstmentioned hem, said lining hem also being turnedinwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of the garment, and asingle continuous generally annular line of readily removable stitchingextending around the inturned hem-lines, said stitching fastening theupturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to the outer-ply and fasteningthe upturned edge of the second-mentioned hem to the lining whileleaving the remainder of said hems unfastened whereby said hems areretained in upwardly-directed position but are free to unfold and fallwhen the stitching is removed in a single operation, thereby to lengthenboth the outer-ply and the lining.

2. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relativelywide bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from theoutside of the garment, a lining having a bottom hem of generally thesame width as the firstmentioned hem, said lining hem also being turnedinwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of the garment, and asingle continuous generally annular line of readily removable stitchingfastening the uppermost edges of said hems to the underlying materialwhile leaving the bottoms of said outer-ply and said lining unconnected,said stitching being removable in a single operation thereby to freesaid hem edges and to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lining.

3. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relativelywide bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from theoutside of the garment, a lining, an interlining disposed underneathsaid lining and fastened thereto at the lower edge thereof, said liningand inter-lining being turned inwardly to provide a bottom hem ofgenerally the same width as the first-mentioned hem, saidsecond-amentioned hem not being visible from the inside of the garment,and a single continuous generally annular line of readily removablestitching extending around the inturned hem-lines, said stitchingfastening the upturned edge of the first-mentioned hem to the outer-plyand fastening the upturned edge of the second-mentioned hem to theinter-lining while leaving the remainder of said hems unfastened wherebysaid hems are retained in upwardly-directed position but are free tounfold and fall when the stitching is removed in a single operation,thereby to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lining.

4. A garment construction comprising an outer-ply having a relativelywide bottom hem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from theoutside of the garment, a lining, an interlining disposed underneathsaid lining and fastened thereto at the lower edge thereof, said liningand inter-lining being turned inwardly to provide a bottom hem ofgenerally the same Width as the first-mentioned hem, saidsecond-mentioned hem not being visible from the inside of the garment,and a single continuous generally annular line or" readily removablestitching fastening the uppermost edges of said hems to the underlyingmaterial while leaving the bottoms of said outer-ply said liningunconnected, said stitching being removable in a single operationthereby to free said hem edges and to lengthen both the outer-ply andthe lining.

5. [in extensible coat for a growing child comprising outer coat-ply ofrelatively heavy fabric or the like having a relatively wide bottom hemturned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of the coat,a lining of relatively thin fabric having a, bottom hem of generally thesame width as the first-mentioned hem, said lining hem also being turnedinwardly so that it is not visible from the inside of the garment, and asingle continuous generally annular line of readily removable stitchingextending around the inturned hems and fastening the uppermost edges ofsaid said stitching fastening the upper edge of the first-mentioned hemto the fabric of the coat-ply with blind stitches invisible from theoutside of the coat, said stitching fastening the upper edge of thesecond-mentioned hem to the lining whereby said hems are retained inupwardly-directed position but with no connection between the bottoms ofthe coat-ply and the lining, said hems being free to unfold and fallwhen the stitching is removed in a single operation, thereby to lengthenboth the coat-ply and the lining.

6. An extensible coat for a growing child comprising an outer coat-plyof relatively heavy fabric or the like having a relatively wide bottomhem turned inwardly so that it is not visible from the outside of thecoat, a lining of relatively thin fabric or the like having aninter-lining disposed on the inner side thereof and fastened thereto atits bottom, said lining and inter-lining being turned inwardly toprovide a bottom hem of generally the same width as the first-mentionedhem, and a single continuous generally annular line of readily removablestitching extending around the inturned hems, said stitching fasteningthe upper edge of the second-mentioned hem to the inter-lining withstitches which are invisible from the inside of the coat while leavingthe remainder of said second-mentioned hem unconnected, said hem beingretained in upwardlydirected position by said stitching but being freeto unfold and fall when the stitching is removed in a single operation,thereby to lengthen both the outer-ply and the lining and its associatedinter-lining.

BARNEY CAPLAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 13,572 Australia Oct. 23, 1928488,881 Great Britain July 15, 1938

